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Fashion and Textile Research Centre

Unit(s) of assessment: Art and Design: History, Practice and Theory

School: School of Art & Design


Fashion and Textiles represents a complex field of research practiced in a global context. Researchers in this Centre focus on a number of different aspects of the discipline including: culture, heritage, design, business and innovation, as reflected and encompassed by the following five research groups:

Fashion and Textile Cultures: Research in this area focuses on global fashion, textiles and dress, as well as the forms and media used to systematically interrogate, persuade and communicate them. The group addresses a wide range of critical and practice-based themes around materials, identities, style and visual contexts. Fashion and textiles - their production technologies, both hand and industrial, their haptic associations, their impact upon our identity and their communication strategies - are intrinsic to our daily human experience. Yet their ubiquitous nature belies a complex social, cultural and historical context. Therefore, through exploring this significance and the meaning and value of fashion, textiles and dress as potent symbols of material and visual culture, new understandings of the values of both ourselves and the global culture we live within are revealed.

Fashion and Textile Heritage: This research group is engaged with questioning how fashion and textile heritage informs our understanding of design and making, business and industry, communities and narratives, and education and culture in both historical and contemporary contexts. Our aim is to deepen understanding of the importance of the fashion and textile industries in forming local, regional and global identities. Through archives – the Lace Archive and Fashion Map – we reflect upon this material culture and utilise it to inform new interpretations, and to develop contemporary art and design practices. This interrogation of fashion and textile heritage offers new insights into its values in contemporary society for future cultural and economic benefit.

Fashion and Textile Design: Research in fashion and textile design is concerned with the development of sustainable, craft based methodological frameworks and systems for investigating and extending the scope of new approaches to design, materials and technologies. Working with diverse local and global communities, the group aims to extend the design and making process through collaborative, inclusive and sustainable practices that challenge established fashion narratives. To date, this has been achieved by synthesising practical and epistemological methods. Craft and sustainability, therefore, are positioned as both discipline and concept, through investigations that address human and environmental concerns and seek to manifest the changing role and value of creative production within individual, community and commercial contexts.

Fashion and Textile Business: This research group is centred on global and interdisciplinary approaches to marketing and design, focusing on brand image and identity in retail stores including the convergence of physical and virtual environments. Consumer behaviour is also a focus of this group and has included attitudes towards product lifetimes in varying domestic and business environments from both consumer and manufacturing perspectives. Sustainability is at the centre of the discussion about fashion and textiles business research, from understanding consumer perspectives to communication and branding strategies.

Advanced Textiles Research: The Advanced Textiles Research Group (ATRG) is a world leading advanced textiles research group with a reputation for designing electronically active wearable technology.  Working at the cutting edge of advanced materials across a number of sectors, including fashion, medical, sports, defence and communication applications, their aim is to extend the ability of smart materials to impact on these fields. Their work has led to a number of patents and commercial products.

This Centre makes a significant contribution to research within the School and to the development of PhD students.

The group, through the email contact below is happy to receive email enquiries from prospective students and researchers wishing to undertake research in the aforementioned areas, as well as those mentioned under individual research staff.

For all enquiries please contact the Research Group Leader, Professor Amanda Briggs-Goode.



EDWARDS, E.M., 2016. Ajrakh: from caste dress to catwalk. Textile History, 47 (2), pp. 146-170. ISSN 0040-4969

EDWARDS, E., 2016. Block printed textiles of India: imprints of culture. New Delhi: Niyogi Books. ISBN 9789385285035

BRAITHWAITE, N., 2018. Fashion, fantasy, power and mystery: interpreting shoes through the lens of visual culture. In: N. MCCREESH and F. CARLOTTO, eds., Engaging with fashion: perspectives on communication, education and business. At the interface / Probing the boundaries . Leiden: Brill | Rodopi, pp. 205-216. ISBN 9789004382428

BROWN, V., 2018. Cool, sunglasses and the modern woman: icons of the 1960s. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 7 (2), pp. 97-114. ISSN 2044-2823

HUNT, K.J., 2018. Eyes, sight and the senses on film and in fashion: crossmodal correspondences and sensorial empathy between Lars von Trier's Dancer in the dark (2000) and Johan Ku's "Selma" collection s/s (2014). Fashion Theory, 22 (1), pp. 31-67. ISSN 1362-704X

HUNT, K., 2019. Seeing things like Hunter: Ralph Steadman's cartoon visions as revelatory masks in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. In: J. CURCIO, ed., Masks: Bowie and artists of artifice. Bristol: Intellect. ISBN 9781789381085 (Forthcoming)

HUNT, K. and HAMBLIN, F., 2019. 'Materials in motion': using film as a method for exploring material properties. In: L. CAMPBELL, ed., Leap into action: critical performative pedagogies in art & design education. New York: Peter Lang. ISBN 9781433166402 (Forthcoming)


COLES, R., BRIGGS-GOODE, A. and BAXTER, G., 2018. Principles and pilfering: Nottingham lace design pedagogy. Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture. ISSN 1475-9756 (Forthcoming)

BRIGGS-GOODE, A. and BAXTER, G., 2020. The archived lace body: contemporary artist designer responses. In: K. TOWNSEND, R. SOLOMON and A. BRIGGS-GOODE, eds., Crafting anatomies: archives, dialogues, fabrications. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, -. ISBN 9781350075474

BRIGGS-GOODE, A., 2018. Lace Unarchived. Bonington Gallery, Nottingham Trent University, Nottingham, 23 February - 29 March 2018.

BRAITHWAITE, N., 2019. Fashionmap: situating style in a shifting landscape. In: L. PETICAN, ed., Fashion and contemporaneity: realms of the visible. At the interface/probing the boundaries (102). Leiden: Brill, Rodopi, pp. 42-68.ISBN 9789004368668

LIAO, Y. and FISHER, T., 2018. The 'real art school': the cultural roots of authenticity in art schools in UK and China. The Design Journal: an International Journal for All Aspects of Design. ISSN 1460-6925



ST. JOHN-JAMES, A. and KENT, A., 2019. Clothing sustainability and upcycling in Ghana. Fashion Practice, 11 (3). ISSN 1756-9370 (Forthcoming)

SIREGAR, Y. and KENT, A.M., 2019. Consumer experience of interactive technology in fashion stores. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. ISSN 0959-0552 (Forthcoming)

TOWNSEND, K., KENT, A. and SADKOWSKA, A., 2019. Fashioning clothing with and for mature women: a small-scale sustainable design business model. Management Decision, 57 (1), pp. 3-20. ISSN 0025-1747

KENT, A. and BUSH, P., 2018. Co-designing for care: craft and wearable wellbeing. In: R. LYNCH and C. FARRINGTON, eds., Quantified lives and vital data: exploring health and technology through personal medical devices. Health, technology and society . Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 251-280. ISBN 9781349952342

KENT, A.M., WINFIELD, S. and SHI, C., 2018. Commercialisation and the authenticity of vintage fashion. In: D. RYDING, C. HENNINGER and M. BLAZQUEZ CANO, eds., Vintage luxury fashion: exploring the rise of the second-hand clothing trade.Palgrave advances in luxury . Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN 9783319719849

BRAITHWAITE, N. and SCHLEMANN, A., 2018. Product service systems: a viable business model for fashion brands? In: C. BECKER-LEIFHOLD and M. HEUER, eds., Eco-friendly and fair: fast fashion and consumer behavior. Sustainability in textiles . Abingdon: Routledge, pp. 132-143. ISBN 9781783538201

Advanced Textiles

  1. Satharasinghe, A., Hughes-Riley, T. and Dias, T., 2019. An investigation of a wash‐durable solar energy harvesting textile. Progress in Photovoltaics: Research and Applications. ISSN 1062-7995
  2. RAHEMTULLA, Z., HUGHES-RILEY, T. and DIAS, T., 2019. Developing a vibration-sensing yarn for monitoring hand-transmitted vibrations. Proceedings, 32 (1): 6. ISSN 2504-3900
  3. SATHARASINGHE, A., HUGHES-RILEY, T. and DIAS, T., 2019. Solar energy-harvesting e-textiles to power wearable devices. Proceedings, 32 (1): 1. ISSN 2504-3900
  4. HUGHES-RILEY, T., OLIVEIRA, C. and DIAS, T., 2019. A knitted multi-junction pressure sensor that uses electrical resistance to determine the applied pressure: development and characterization. Proceedings, 32 (1): 3. ISSN 2504-3900
  5. KOMOLAFE, A., TORAH, R., WEI, Y., NUNES‐MATOS, H., LI, M., HARDY, D., DIAS, T., TUDOR, M. and BEEBY, S., 2019.Integrating flexible filament circuits for e‐textile applications. Advanced Materials Technologies, 4 (7): 1900176. ISSN 2365-709X
  6. HARDY, D.A., ANASTASOPOULOS, I., NASHED, M.-N., HUGHES-RILEY, T., KOMOLAFE, A., TUDOR, J., TORAH, R., BEEBY, S. and DIAS, T., 2019. Automated insertion of package dies onto wire and into a textile yarn sheath. Microsystem Technologies. ISSN 0946-7076
  7. NASHED, M.-N., HARDY, D.A., HUGHES-RILEY, T. and DIAS, T., 2019. A novel method for embedding semiconductor dies within textile yarn to create electronic textiles. Fibers, 7 (2): 12. ISSN 2079-6439
  8. HUGHES-RILEY, T., OLIVEIRA, C., MORRIS, R.H. and DIAS, T., 2019. The characterization of a pressure sensor constructed from a knitted spacer structure. Digital Medicine. ISSN 2226-8561
  9. SATHARASINGHE, A., HUGHES-RILEY, T. and DIAS, T., 2018. Photodiodes embedded within electronic textiles. Scientific Reports, 8 (1): 16205. ISSN 2045-2322
  10. LUGODA, P., HUGHES-RILEY, T., MORRIS, R. and DIAS, T., 2018. A wearable textile thermograph. Sensors, 18 (7): 2369. ISSN 1424-8220
  11. LUGODA, P., HUGHES-RILEY, T., OLIVEIRA, C., MORRIS, R. and DIAS, T., 2018. Developing novel temperature sensing garments for health monitoring applications. Fibers, 6 (3): 46. ISSN 2079-6439
  12. MBISE, E., DIAS, T., HURLEY, W. and MORRIS, R., 2018. The study of applying heat to enhance moisture transfer in knitted spacer structures. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 47 (7), pp. 1584-1608. ISSN 1528-0837
  13. HUGHES-RILEY, T. and DIAS, T., 2018. Developing an acoustic sensing yarn for health surveillance in a military setting. Sensors, 18 (5): 1590. ISSN 1424-8220
  14. MBISE, E., DIAS, T., HURLEY, W. and MORRIS, R., 2018. Development of a test method for investigating moisture transfer rate of textiles. Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 4 (3), pp. 254-261. ISSN 2574-8114
  15. HARDY, D.A., MONETA, A., SAKALYTE, V., CONNOLLY, L., SHAHIDI, A. and HUGHES-RILEY, T., 2018. Engineering a costume for performance using illuminated LED-yarns. Fibers, 6 (2): 35. ISSN 2079-6439
  16. LUGODA, P., DIAS, T., HUGHES-RILEY, T. and MORRIS, R., 2018. Refinement of temperature sensing yarns. Proceedings, 2 (3), p. 123. ISSN 2504-3900
  17. HUGHES-RILEY, T., DIAS, T. and CORK, C.R., 2018. A historical review of the development of electronic textiles. Fibers, 6 (2): 34. ISSN 2079-6439
  18. HUGHES-RILEY, T., LUGODA, P., DIAS, T., TRABI, C.L. and MORRIS, R.H., 2017. A study of thermistor performance within a textile structure. Sensors, 17 (8), p. 1804. ISSN 1424-8220
  19. LUGODA, P., DIAS, T. and MORRIS, R., 2015. Electronic temperature sensing yarn. Journal of Multidisciplinary Engineering Science Studies, 1 (1). ISSN 2912-1309
  20. ACTI, T., CHAURAYA, A., ZHANG, S., WHITTOW, W.G., SEAGER, R., VARDAXOGLOU, J.C. and DIAS, T., 2015. Embroidered Wire Dipole Antennas Using Novel Copper Yarns. IEEE Antennas and Wireless Propagation Letters, 14, pp. 638-641. ISSN 1536-1225
  21. HUSAIN, M.D., KENNON, R. and DIAS, T., 2014. Design and fabrication of Temperature Sensing Fabric. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 44 (3), pp. 398-417. ISSN 1528-0837
  22. MORRIS, R.H., MCHALE, G., DIAS, T. and NEWTON, M.I., 2013. Embroidered coils for magnetic resonance sensors. Electronics, 2 (2), pp. 168-177. ISSN 2079-9292
  23. TENNANT, A., HURLEY, W. and DIAS, T., 2013. Knitted, textile, high impedance surface with integrated conducting vias. Electronics Letters, 49 (1), pp. 8-10. ISSN 0013-5194
  24. DIAS, T., CORK, C.R., RATNAYAKA, A. and ANASTASOPOULOS, I., 2013. Electronically functional yarns for smart textiles. Nano (27). ISSN 1757-2517
  25. TENNANT, A., HURLEY, W. and DIAS, T., 2012. Experimental knitted, textile frequency selective surfaces. Electronics Letters, 48 (22), p. 1386. ISSN 0013-5194
  26. DELKUMBURAWATTE, G.B. and DIAS, T., 2012. Wearable cooling system to manage heat in protective clothing. Journal of the Textile Institute, 103 (5), pp. 483-489. ISSN 0040-5000
  27. PREECE, S.J., KENNEY, L.P.J., MAJOR, J.M., DIAS, T., LAY, E. and FERNANDES, B.T., 2011. Automatic identification of gait events using an instrumented sock. Journal of NeuroEngineering and Rehabilitation, 8 (32), pp. 1-10.
  28. DIAS, T. and DELKUMBURAWATTE, G.B., 2010. Analysis of water absorbency into knitted spacer structures. Journal of the Textile Institute, 101 (2), pp. 143-153. ISSN 0040-5000

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